Balmain - Boujie Bitch Realness
Olivier Rousteing has done genuinely amazing things at Balmain. He has taken a fashion brand with history and longevity and propelled it to new heights. Through the use of social media Olivier introduced the brand to a whole new customer. Balmain really rose to notoriety back in 2016 when the Kardashians did the most for the brand.
At the time the power of the infamous family within luxury fashion was not recognised and a lot of designers wouldn't dress them, then Olivier started to use them all for campaigns and dressed them for red carpets and now the rest is history. Balmain is now a mainstream brand and it is all thanks to Olivier's vision. It might also be helped by the fact that he is the youngest Creative Director ever, providing a fresh take on the direction of fashion.
Autumn/Winter 2020
All-in-all this season felt quite different for Balmain. Gone are the more evening wear dominated runways and in comes the most boujie runway you have ever seen. When I say boujie I am not talking your modern day fancy lady, I am talking about an era that has gone, the 70s and 80s. During this period, class was more defined and it was represented within your clothes. This season Olivier has taken influence from the upper class ladies of his youth. Throughout the runway there are subtle details which point towards this more exclusive way of dressing.
This definitely feels very different from the
Fendi 70s Inspired Show a few seasons ago, this feels much stronger in the designs and the way the outfits have been pieced together. In the Fendi show there were a lot of floaty pleated skirts and shirts whereas Balmain has more draping and caping. The Balmain show uses structure within the shoulders and subtle shaping to define the body but to give off a fuck it attitude.
The colour scheme is very neutral which does feel like the epitome of sophisticated lady style. There is the occasional moment of colour but for the most part it does stay very neutral. There isn't even an excessive amount of patterning this season, the only one you really see is this intricate chain detailing which is reminiscent of Versace, but also Victoria Beckham. I feel like the chain pattern has similar tones to Victoria Beckham and in fact the whole runway feels very much like her
A/W19 collection in terms of the colour scheme. I adored that runway and reference it a lot so I love this version that Balmain have created.
However as always with Balmain it is not the colours or patterns but it is the shaping of the clothes and the textures. The structuring of the clothes is best shown in the tailored pieces like the jacket in the picture below. There is always a strong shape to the shoulders of Balmain jackets. Their iconic blazers always seem to be double breasted but I love that this season it has a slightly shorter length, bordering on cropped but it is still just as formal and just as stunning as their traditional blazers.
I also love that the blazer has been paired with a more casual khaki, utility trouser. There were a pair of trousers very similar to this on The Kooples last season which I loved and stupidly did not pick up but I love how they are very slim and that the pockets add detail. A lot of the outfits either have a bigger, looser top and a tighter bottom or more volume within the trousers and a tighter top. Balmain know how to dress to make a woman look her best but also feel her best.
Texture is created within this runway in such a unusual way, relatively plain fabrics are used but the ateliers have shaped the fabric to give it ruching and shape. Two fabrics that have been utilized in this runway are vinyl and leather. The shaping of the leather is absolutely incredible, it is shaped in an almost draping effect and it is formed to shape the body perfectly. In one outfit it is used as a bustier and it looks amazing. The grey top below is one of these pieces and when you look at it from afar you would assume it was just beautifully draped fabric but it is leather. It is honestly truly beautiful craftsmanship.
Alongside this leather shaping, there is also a lot of vinyl (no quite as much as
Saint Laurent) and also a bit of the satin you would expect from Balmain. There were lots of Satin suits which have a clear 80s inspiration within the large shoulder pads and the general oversized feel but it is the vinyl which I find more interesting.
The satin is definitely something we have seen before but Vinyl seems to be having a moment in Paris. Kim Kardashian has been wearing these Balmain creations for a few weeks and it is definitely a case of being fashion forward to wear these all over vinyl outfits. Saint Laurent broke up the vinyl with other pieces but Balmain have decided to create a full vinyl outfit. The shaping of the jacket interests me and I love the way it is almost twisted in the middle to allow for the shape of the waist. I love this detail and once again I think it is very creative.
Based on This Runway, What Should You Add to Your A/W Wardrobe?
Boujie 70s Housewife - Neutrals are the uniform of the upper class housewife and it should be a part of your wardrobe too. A camel outer piece is always a good place to start.
Leather and Vinyl - Vinyl is definitely coming up in a lot of Paris Fashion Week shows so maybe it is time to rock the high shine material a little bit more. Thankfully Balmain also incorporated a lot of leather for the not so bold.
Be Bold - Balmain promotes being bold within what your wearing and the structure of the piece, and this runway is the perfect showcase of that.
Balmain Blazer - The Balmain Blazer is back with a smaller update, a more cropped update but it is no less fierce than its predecessors. Look for a blazer with strong shoulder pads but also emphasises your waist.
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